Madrid

¡Hala Madrid! (Go Madrid!). The Spanish capital must be one of my favourite cities (if not my number 1 city) of all time! Having lived here for a couple of years, I’m obviously biased, but it’s difficult to deny that there’s a certain magic about Madrid. It’s something intangible. Yes, Madrid’s architecture may not rival that of Barcelona, and it certainly lacks a beach (especially during those ridiculously hot summer months), but the city has an incredible sense of energy and a unique, authentic vibe that will enthrall almost any visitor.

Your tourist guide will likely tell you to visit the Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol, Gran Vía or the Santiago Bernabeu football stadium. And it is right – these are all beautiful places full of history. But Madrid has so much more to offer. How about discovering some of the city’s many hidden squares surrounded by beautiful architecture or stunning vistas? Or going for cañas (beers) and tapas in a different bar each evening? Oh and do make sure to befriend a local and get an invite to a party, because the madrileños know how to throw a good one. The city’s residents are called gatos, or cats, for a reason…

Here are some of my must-do’s when in Madrid:

1. Start your day in Spanish style
2. Get a taste of local life in Madrid’s different barrios
3. Soak up Spanish history in a world class museum (for free!)
4. Discover Madrid’s greener side
5. Bring out your inner-foodie
6. Stroll along one of the city’s many lovely (hidden) squares
7. Watch the sunset from an amazing roof terrace
8. BYO and join an open-air drinking feast
9. Party until sunrise
10. Escape the city

+ Madrid’s Best (IMHO)…

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Madrid’s beautiful Retiro Park
  1. Start your day in Spanish style

Spaniards don’t normally have a big breakfast. However, most bars do amazing café con leche (milk coffee) and – my favourite – pan con tomate: toasted baguette with crushed fresh tomatoes, olive oil and some salt. Ñom ñom ñom…

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café y pan con tomate – si, por favor!
  1. Get a taste of local life in Madrid’s different barrios

Had your caffeine dose and ready to hit the city? Go and discover Madrid’s central neighbourhoods, each of which has a different feel and vibe. El Barrio de los Austrias (the Austrian/Hapsburg quarter) is the historic heart of the city and hosts many iconic monuments, including the Royal Palace and the Plaza Mayor. Malasaña is Madrid’s answer to Shoreditch and is filled with cool coffee shops and independent stores. Chueca is the famous LGBT district while Lavapiés shows the city’s multicultural side, with many Asian and African shops and restaurants. Are you in for some fancy shopping? Then head to the glamourous Salamanca district. Or would you rather go for some low-key, but fun drinks and tapas? La Latina and the Huertas are the places to be. Finally, not as well-known as the other areas, but probably my favourite (because I used to live around the corner!), is Las Salesas, which is located right between Malasaña, Chueca and Salamanca and has become a magnet for art galleries, concept stores and trendy bars in recent years.

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El Barrio de los Austrias boasts some stunning architecture

 

  1. Soak up Spanish history in a world class museum (for free!)

Interested in Spanish (art) history? Then you’re in the right place, because Madrid has a number of state-of-the-art museums. And what’s more, you can access many of them for free if you plan ahead! The Prado, arguably Spain’s most important museum, has free admission from 6-8pm Monday to Saturday and from 5-7pm on Sunday. The Reina Sofía, the 20th century art museum with famous works from Picasso, is free from 7-9pm Monday to Saturday (closed on Tuesdays) and from 1:30-7pm on Sunday. Finally, the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which hosts an extraordinary private collection of European art, is free on Mondays from 12-4pm.

Apart from these ‘Big 3’, Madrid has a range of other, smaller museums and cultural centres. For contemporary art, must-see places include Caixa Forum, Conde Duque, and – my personal favourite – Matadero, a former slaughterhouse (yes, true!) converted into an arts centre. All of these are completely free of charge. If you’re more into history and classical art then make sure to visit the Museum of Madrid’s History (free), the opulent Cerralbo Museum and the super cute Museum of Romanticism (not as in romantic, but as in the 18th century artistic era). Both are free after 2pm on Saturdays, with the former also being free to the public on Thursday evenings.

  1. Discover Madrid’s greener side

After such an overdose of art, it’s time to get some vitamin D and top up your tan in one of Madrid’s beautiful parks. The most famous is El Parque del Buen Retiro – or simply Retiro – Madrid’s version of Central Park. This vast green space filled with monuments, sculptures, lakes and funky trees was once part of the royal gardens but is now a huge public park in the heart of the city. Look out for the stunning Crystal Palace when you’re there!

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Retiro’s Crystal Palace in autumn

One of Madrid’s most famous green spaces is actually not outdoors, but inside a train station. Yes, you heard that right. Atocha is the city’s biggest railway station and its former grand departure hall has been converted into a vast indoor tropical garden, with turtles and all! It’s a great space that’s definitely worth checking out.

A lesser known green oasis is Madrid’s river side, which until recently was an ugly motorway. At the start of this century, a network of tunnels was built, traffic disappeared underground and Madrid Rio was born: a 6km long park along the Manzanares river.

Madrid’s largest public park is Casa de Campo on the west side of the city. It has its own theme park, cable car, zoo as well as wild flora and fauna. It’s one of the biggest urban parks in Europe and you’d hardly believe you’re in the Spanish capital!

  1. Bring out your inner-foodie

Can’t get enough of Spanish food? Or are you planning to save money by cooking your own meals? Or maybe you simply want to immerse yourself in the local culture? Make sure not to miss one of Madrid’s many indoor food markets. The touristy but mouth-watering San Miguel market is a feast for the eye and taste buds. Its hipster version is the San Ildefonso market, a newly opened street food market in Malasaña. Platea in the Salamanca district is a similar, but more high-end concept. This cinema-turned-food-court has a range of stalls, bars and restaurants, all overseen by three Michelin-starred Spanish chefs – a real Walhalla for food lovers!

For a truly authentic experience, go grocery shopping in your neighbourhood’s local mercado. In the city centre, these include San Antón in Chueca, Barceló in Malasaña or Antón Martín in Huertas, just to name a few.

And of course – say Spain and food and the first thing that comes to mind is tapas. Hence, a trip to the country’s capital wouldn’t be complete with some good old cañas y tapas in La Latina on a weekend afternoon. Right across the corner from Madrid’s most famous Sunday flea market – El Rastro – you will find a myriad of small bars and cafes that serve some amazing little snacks with your drink. But be early, or be prepared to stand!

While tapas are originally from southern Spain, something more typically local is a cocido madrileño, a chickpea-based stew with potatoes, meat and vegetables. It’s a popular winter lunch dish, but can be eaten throughout the year in restaurants like Taberna de la Daniela (with branches in Barrio de los Austrias and Salamanca).

And there’s always room for dessert, so drop by at Mama Framboise for Madrid’s best pastries or go for the more traditional churros con chocolate at Chocolatería San Ginés (an institution in Madrid). Sugar overdose guaranteed!

  1. Stroll along one of the city’s many lovely (hidden) squares

What better way to digest all of this food than going for a stroll along one of Madrid’s many hidden and not-so-hidden squares? No, I’m not talking about Plaza Mayor, Cibeles or Plaza de España – there are plenty of other, quieter and possibly even more beautiful plazas across the city. Take the quaint and intimate Plaza de la Paja and Plaza de San Andrés in the heart of the city, for instance, which are lined with trees and surrounded by traditional buildings and small churches. Or mix and mingle with students at the Plaza del Dos de Mayo or the quieter Plaza de las Comendadoras, both in Malasaña.

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Plaza del dos de Mayo is at the heart of Malasaña

Probably two of my favourite squares though are a bit off the beaten track, but therefore all the more authentic: the stunning Plaza de Olavide in the Trafalgar neighbourhood, which is filled with small terraces and local families, and the Plaza de la Villa de Paris, a lovely quiet square just behind the Supreme Court.

The list of pretty squares could go on and on – the best way to discover them is by getting lost and accidentally stumbling on one!

  1. Watch the sunset from an amazing rooftop terrace

On a hot summer night, or on a sunny spring or autumn afternoon, what’s better than enjoying a drink whilst watching the sun set over the city? Nothing, right? Well, luckily, Madrid has a number of fabulous rooftop bars with incredible vistas. One of the most well-known ones is Azotea on top of the Círculo de Bellas Artes, with stunning views over much of Madrid. Other fancy rooftop bars are the Oscar Terrace at the Room Mate hotel in Chueca and Radio at the ME Hotel at Plaza Santa Anna.

On a bit more of a budget? Then check out the rooftop terraces at El Viajero in La Latina or at the San Antón market in Chueca.

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However, my favourite roof terrace must be at The Hat hostel, in the heart of the city. This ubercool rooftop bar serves affordable drinks and has spectacular views over the oldest part of town.

And a final secret tip for those of you that don’t want to bother paying for a nice sunset: the mirador at the Templo de Debod – the remains of an ancient Egyptian temple (for real!) – offers stunning views over the Royal Palace and much of the rest of the city.

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The sun setting over Madrid’s Royal Palace, seen from the Mirador del Templo de Debod
  1. BYO and join an open-air drinking feast

Although it’s officially not allowed, botellón (litarally: big bottle) is a typical Spanish phenomenon. It’s simply young people coming together at night time in public spaces, bringing their own drinks and just having a blast in the open air, all made possible by the Mediterranean temperatures.

Botellones happen everywhere in Madrid, but are most common in and around Malasaña, particularly at the Plaza de San Ildefonso where you’ll typically find dozens of people sitting on the street having a drink. Buy a couple of beers from a local street vendor or night shop and join the crowd! It’s cheap, fun and THE best way to get to know locals.

  1. Party until sunrise

The Spanish LOVE a good fiesta and definitely know how to throw a good one. There are countless bars and night clubs spread across Madrid, which normally don’t get busy until 2am. So, if you’re in for the full Madrid Experience, be prepared to party a lot and sleep little (forget that siesta, Spaniards sleep fewer hours than anyone else in Europe).

Ideally, your new Spanish BFF that you will have met at the bottelón will show you where to find the hottest parties, but if not, here are some tips. The list is endless, but some of the most popular night clubs in Madrid include Teatro Barceló, Joy Eslava and La Riviera. A lot of the more exclusive night clubs are situated around the Paseo de la Castellana, the city’s biggest avenue. Are you up for something more alternative, then go to one of the many bars in Malasaña, such as the iconic La Vía Lactea, or to the Ocho y Medio indie nightclub. Chueca is full of smaller and bigger LGBT friendly bars and clubs. Electronic and techno fans can eat their heart out at Nox (near Chamartín) and Fabrik (on the outskirts of the city). Finally (as a last resort): are you with a group of friends and can’t make up your mind? Try one of the 7 floors at Kapital, a huge night club near Atocha that has something for (almost) everyone…

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  1. Escape the city

Although Madrid never-ever gets boring, you might want to get a break from all the hustle and bustle of city life. In that case, you don’t have to look far, because this city of 3.5 million is surrounded by a number of beautiful smaller towns, palaces and nature.

A 40 minute train ride takes you to gorgeous Toledo, known as the ‘City of 3 Cultures’ because of its Islamic, Jewish and Christian history. Other day trips include the medieval towns of Segovia and Ávila or even Salamanca, which are now linked to the capital by a new high-speed rail. If you’re interested in literature you might want to visit Miguel de Cervantes’ hometown Alcalá de Henares.

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Segovia is a little jewel

The Madrid region also boasts a number of impressive palaces, such as El Escorial or the Royal Palace of Aranjuez, both of which are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and only an hour away by train from central Madrid.

Alternatively, for the Sporty Spices among us, the Sierra da Guadarrama – a mountain range just north of Madrid – offers spectacular opportunities for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing and even skiing.

Madrid’s best (IMHO):

  • Breakfast: pan con tomate at any local bar
  • Coffee: Toma Café; Federal Café – both in Malasaña
  • Pastry: Mama Framboise in Las Salesas
  • Tapas: Restaurant Lateral at Plaza Santa Ana; Mercado de San Miguel; or anywhere in La Latina
  • Hostel: The Hat in Barrio de Los Austrias (cool design, great location, amazing rooftop terrace); Room 007 in Chueca (clean, nicely decorated rooms) – both with dorms and private rooms
  • Hotel: Artrip in Lavapies (affordable cool)
  • View: Mirador del Templo de Debod
  • Public swimming pool: Lago

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